Practical money advice for people with a life to live, not a spreadsheet to obsess over.
Housing

How Much House Can You Actually Afford (Not Just What the Bank Approves)

Sept 12, 2026, 8 min read, Updated Sept 2026

Get pre-approved for $450,000, and the letter reads like permission β€” as if the bank has done the math on what you can afford and the answer is right there in writing. It hasn't. It's answered a narrower question: the largest loan it's willing to give you, based on a formula that has nothing to do with your actual budget.

The bank's number vs. a number you can live with

Lenders typically approve mortgages using debt-to-income ratios that allow housing costs up to around 28-36% of gross (pre-tax) income, sometimes higher β€” before taxes, before retirement contributions, before anything else you actually spend money on, which is why a lot of "approved" buyers end up house-poor immediately after closing. A more honest target: aim for total housing costs β€” mortgage, property taxes, insurance, and estimated maintenance β€” at or below 25-28% of your take-home (after-tax) pay instead. That leaves realistic room for everything else in your budget, including the parts a bank's calculation never sees.

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Costs the pre-approval doesn't include

The bank is answering "what's the biggest loan we're comfortable giving you." You need the answer to a different question: "what can I pay every month and still like my life."

A practical way to test your real number

  1. Calculate your target monthly housing cost at 25-28% of take-home pay, not gross income.
  2. Add estimated property tax, insurance, and 1-2% of the home value for maintenance.
  3. Try living on that adjusted budget for two to three months before house-hunting, redirecting the difference into savings.
  4. If that trial budget feels sustainable, you have a number you can trust β€” one the bank never actually calculated for you.

The pre-approval letter is useful for knowing what's possible. It was never meant to answer what's comfortable, and treating those as the same number is where a lot of home-buying regret starts.

Once you know your real number, it's also worth checking whether any first-time homebuyer programs could lower your actual down payment or closing costs β€” and whether renting still wins the comparison at that price point.

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Frequently asked questions

Why is the bank's pre-approval amount usually more than I should actually spend?

Lenders typically approve mortgages using debt-to-income ratios that allow housing costs up to around 28-36% of gross income, sometimes higher. That's before taxes, retirement contributions, or anything else you actually spend money on.

What percentage of my income should actually go toward housing?

A common rule of thumb is to keep total housing costs β€” mortgage, property taxes, insurance, and estimated maintenance β€” at or below 25-28% of your take-home (after-tax) pay, not your gross salary.

What costs does a mortgage pre-approval leave out?

Maintenance and repairs (often 1-2% of the home's value per year), HOA fees, higher utility costs than your current home, and furnishing or moving costs are all typically left out of the pre-approval number.

What is PMI and when do I have to pay it?

A down payment below 20% usually triggers private mortgage insurance (PMI), an extra monthly cost that doesn't build equity and should be factored into your true monthly payment.

How can I test whether a home price is actually affordable before buying?

Calculate your target monthly housing cost at 25-28% of take-home pay, add estimated taxes, insurance, and maintenance, then try living on that adjusted budget for two to three months before house-hunting.